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    October 17

    發財立品 20090930

     
    俗語有云“發財要立品”,那個品字,除了可解品行,筆者認為,應加多一義解作品味。

     

        民以食為天,富人窮人也得要吃,平有平食貴有貴食,窮人選擇少,只能在平價食材上多花工夫才能吃得好,但富人要吃得好更難,因為錢多了,選擇自然更多,高低檔次任君選擇,有沒有品味,懂不懂選擇,是關鍵。

        澳門近年來經濟起飛,有錢人多了,要求比以前高,有求自然有供,本澳食肆當然把握商機,魚翅鮑魚黑白松露等等一大堆名貴食材,變得滿街俯拾皆是。像前些時間的端午節,又是賣糭子的商機,但是肥豬肉包的糭子能賣多少個錢?於是有商號推出鮑魚糭子托市,他們的目標顧客不言自明。但這個鮑魚糭,在筆者看來,食用價値比它的價錢低何止千倍,是十分“無品”之作也。首先,以鹹豬肉包糭,原因在於其味能使糭子透滿肉香,但是以鮑魚作料,鮑魚本身無味,以味評之,根本毫無作為可言;其次,以健康考慮,吃糭子本來易“食滯”,再加鮑魚這種難消化的食材,必然更加“頂胃”,影響腸胃健康,隨時需再花錢買便秘丸就更無謂。另外還有西洋飮食名牌松露,眼看現在中外食肆都以它作招徠,使用方法日新月異,加在湯裡、加在甜品裡等,高檔餐廳稍加些許松露,就可令簡單平凡的食品點石成金,又來一百幾十大洋,眞是神乎奇技也。

        誠然,物以罕為貴,以上所述之食材都是名貴物產,筆者亦無意批評餐廳詐騙,但是,今天某幾款名牌食材已到了被濫用的情況下,作為食客,即使是名貴食材,名廚烹之,所出品的又是否一定物有所値?閣下所在乎的只是排場貴氣的話,鮑魚松露當然可勝任,但若為感動味蕾的話,筆者相信,包糭包了幾百年,前人留下來的傳統,是有他們的道理。要理解這點不難,現代市面上很多所謂創新菜式都可以敎曉你這一道理,花幾百元學費即可。

        發財的方法多如天上星星,但是人的品味,要培養可非一朝一夕。富有只代表你有更多的選擇,懂不懂選擇,可不能相信廣吿,廣吿不會吿訴你,古時的松露是豬吃的。

        今年的中秋節,未知會否看到以鮑魚取代蛋黃的鮑魚月餠?

     

    澳門日報 http://www.macaodaily.com/html/2009-09/30/content_371472.htm

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